A good risotto is made with love, and takes all your attention. Don't be tempted to rush it by adding too much liquid at a time. Add the liquid ladle by ladle, just enough to make the mixture "sloppy" again. The final consistency you're aiming for is soft, creamy and quite wet, with the dressing of parmesan having formed a thick sauce or mantecare with the remaining stock and what little starch is released from the rice.

Use only genuine risotto rice (Carnaroli or Vialone Nano); its high protein content means it won't turn to mush like other rices, but it will go on absorbing more and more liquid; it is cooked when slightly al dente, that is to say still slightly firm and rubbery but don't undercook it either or you'll end up with something gritty (like I was given at a certain "Italian" restaurant in Brighton with a big outdoor deck and a nice view over the sea).

For special occasions, you may like to fry some chopped fresh sage and parsley in butter and a little olive oil for a few minutes, and pour this over the risotto together with a further sprinkling of Parmesan.

Heat a few tablespoons full of olive oil with a large knob of butter in a large saucepan. Fry the onion & garlic for ten minutes until soft. Add the uncooked rice and stir-fry for five minutes to toast the rice, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, keep the stock hot and simmering in a separate pan. Add the wine and reduce the heat, stirring well. When the wine has nearly been completely absorbed, add a few ladlefuls of stock to the rice. Keep stirring, and add a ladle or two more when the mixture is getting too dry. Add the porcini mushrooms and the soaking liquor (strained) to the rice when it is about half-cooked, and stir well. When cooked, add the Parmesan and stir in well until completely melted.

Serves 4